Question 1

What size geyser do I need?

Accepted Answer

Use a 1–3 litre instant heater for a kitchen tap, 6–10 litres for a bathroom used by one or two people, 15 litres for a family of three or four, and 25 litres or more for larger families, rain showers or bathtubs. In cold places like the hills of Uttarakhand, go one size up.

Question 2

What's the difference between instant and storage water heaters?

Accepted Answer

An instant heater (typically 1–6 litres, around 3 kW) heats a small quantity fast — ideal for kitchens and quick hand-washing. A storage heater (6–35 litres or more, usually around 2 kW) heats a tank of water and keeps it hot — for baths and showers.

Question 3

How long does a geyser take to heat water?

Accepted Answer

Roughly: litres × temperature rise × 1.16 Wh ÷ heater watts. A 15 L tank heated from 15 °C to 55 °C needs about 700 Wh, so a 2 kW heater takes around 20–25 minutes; in winter, with colder inlet water, longer.

Question 4

How much electricity does a geyser use?

Accepted Answer

Heating a 15 L tank once from cold to bath-hot uses about 0.7–0.8 units, plus a little to keep it hot. Two heat-ups a day is roughly 40–50 units a month — more in winter, less with a well-insulated, higher-star model and a sensible thermostat setting.

Question 5

What temperature should I set the geyser thermostat to?

Accepted Answer

About 50–60 °C is enough for bathing and keeps standing heat loss and scaling down. Higher settings waste electricity and raise the risk of scalding; very low settings can let bacteria grow in stored water.

Question 6

Should I switch the geyser off after use?

Accepted Answer

If you bathe at set times, yes: switch it on 20–30 minutes before and off afterwards. Leaving it on all day keeps reheating the water as it cools, which wastes electricity, especially in winter.

Question 7

What is the pressure release valve on a geyser?

Accepted Answer

A safety valve on the cold inlet that lets out water if the tank pressure gets too high, preventing the tank from bursting. Never block it or remove it. A few drips while heating are normal; a constant flow means it or the pressure needs checking.

Question 8

Which geyser should I buy for a high-rise or pressure pump?

Accepted Answer

Choose a storage heater rated for the water pressure in your building (check the bar rating on the datasheet), with a proper pressure release valve. High-rise flats and homes with pressure pumps often need a higher pressure rating than gravity-fed tanks.

Question 9

What does the anode rod in a geyser do?

Accepted Answer

A magnesium anode rod corrodes in place of the tank, protecting it from rust. It wears away over time — faster with hard water — so have it checked and replaced during servicing.

Question 10

Why is my geyser taking longer to heat?

Accepted Answer

Usually scale on the heating element from hard water, a weakening element, a thermostat fault, or simply colder inlet water in winter. Descaling and servicing the heater often restores its speed.

Question 11

My geyser isn't heating at all. What should I check?

Accepted Answer

Check the switch, the MCB and the socket; see if the heater's thermal cut-out has tripped (many have a reset button, to be reset only after finding why it tripped); otherwise the element or thermostat has probably failed and needs a technician.

Question 12

My geyser is leaking. Is that dangerous?

Accepted Answer

A few drops from the pressure valve during heating are normal. Water from the body, the joints or the bottom of the tank isn't: switch it off at the switch and MCB, close the inlet valve and get it checked — a corroded tank can fail.

Question 13

How should a geyser be wired?

Accepted Answer

On its own circuit with its own MCB, a 16 A socket or a 20 A double-pole switch, wire sized for its current (a 2 kW heater draws about 8.7 A, a 3 kW about 13 A — 2.5 sq mm copper is common, 4 sq mm for bigger loads or long runs), a proper earth, and a 30 mA RCCB.

Question 14

Where should a geyser be installed?

Accepted Answer

Close to where the hot water is used (so less water cools in the pipes), on a strong wall that can take the full tank's weight, high enough to be out of the shower spray, with space around it for servicing. Keep the switch outside the bathroom.

Question 15

Vertical or horizontal geyser — which should I choose?

Accepted Answer

Vertical heaters usually deliver hot water a little more efficiently because hot water collects at the top. Horizontal models fit under low ceilings and above doors. Choose by the space you have.

Question 16

Which pipe is the inlet and which is the outlet on a geyser?

Accepted Answer

The cold inlet (usually marked blue) has the pressure release valve on it; the hot outlet is usually marked red. Connecting them the wrong way round lets the tank drain and can damage the element.

Question 17

How often should a geyser be serviced?

Accepted Answer

About once a year, more often with hard water: descale the element, check the anode rod, test the pressure valve and thermostat, and check the earth and wiring.

Question 18

What do BEE stars on a geyser mean?

Accepted Answer

Storage water heaters in India carry a BEE star label for standing heat loss: more stars mean the tank keeps water hot longer for less electricity. It matters most where water is kept hot through the day.

Question 19

How do I use an immersion rod heater safely?

Accepted Answer

Put the rod fully in the water in a plastic bucket before switching on, never touch the water while it's on, switch off and unplug before taking it out, and never let the rod touch the bucket's sides or bottom. Use a proper earthed 3-pin socket and an RCCB-protected circuit.

Question 20

Is it safe to use an immersion rod in a metal bucket?

Accepted Answer

No. Use a plastic bucket. A metal bucket can become live if the rod leaks current, and a rod touching metal can overheat.

Question 21

Why do geysers need extra care in the hills?

Accepted Answer

Very cold inlet water means longer heating and more electricity, and pipes can freeze in exposed spots. Choose a bigger, well-insulated tank, keep pipes short and lagged, and make sure the water is never frozen inside when the heater is switched on.

Question 22

Can I run a geyser on an inverter?

Accepted Answer

Usually not. A 2–3 kW heater would drain a typical home inverter battery in minutes and may overload the inverter. Keep geysers on the mains-only circuits.

Question 23

Why does hot water come out rusty or smelly?

Accepted Answer

Rusty water can mean a worn anode or a corroding tank or pipes; a rotten-egg smell can come from the anode reacting with certain water. Have the heater serviced — the anode may need replacing.

Question 24

Is an instant geyser safe for showers?

Accepted Answer

Small instant heaters suit kitchens and wash basins; for a shower you need the flow rate and power to keep water hot continuously, which most small instant units can't give. Use a storage heater for bathing.

Question 25

What safety features should a water heater have?

Accepted Answer

A thermostat to control temperature, a thermal cut-out that switches off if the thermostat fails, a pressure release valve, proper earthing, and ideally an RCCB on its circuit. Don't use a heater with any of these missing or bypassed.